Toberainy

Well, we’ve been saying for the past few months that we’re not visiting Scotland for the weather. Having had a relatively fine day on Saturday we awoke to a drizzly Sunday. In this part of the world everyone owns a raincoat with rainproof hood, rain pants and waterproof shoes. The optimists, like us, carry umbrellas, unlike the hardy locals who know that sooner rather than later the umbrella will be destroyed by wind gusts.

The least fortunate among the people away from their homes on wet days are the cigarette smokers, of whom there are still quite a few in Scotland. Because they aren’t permitted to indulge their habit inside the pubs they huddle in the exposed entrances or outdoor alcoves and with extreme desperation struggle to light their fags in the howling winds and driving rain. On achieving success they then stand exposed for the several minutes the process requires. Someone should invent a cosy smoker’s jacket which incorporates a weatherproof and fireproof light-up compartment complete with ignition device and pocket for ciggies.

While yesterday, Sunday, Mary opted to read her book in our comfortable apartment I decided that some further exploration, on foot, was called for, despite the steady and sullen rain. Having on the Saturday morning, early, explored the path which leads around the headland to our north, and discovered a lighthouse 30 minutes away, on Sunday I targetted the southern end of Main Street. Booted and jacketed and equipped with collapsible umbrella I strode out into the grey drizzle with a promise to Mary that I would return by lunch time.

Fifteen minutes later I was striding, umbrella deployed, along the Aros Park path whose edges were festooned with bright green indications of abundant water. The harbour was on my left about 30 metres below, the path muddy in parts but easy for walking, unless wearing high heels.

Sput Dubh “cascades to the shore in a spectacular waterfall which was a watering point for the Royal Navy who were based here back in 1940” (http://www.tobermory.co.uk/aros-park-walk.htm)


Eight second video with waterfall roar muted.

Fly agaric apparently has a long recorded history of usage among human cultures in the northern hemisphere where it occurs naturally. To quote one section of the Wikipedia article: “In eastern Siberia, the shaman would consume the mushrooms, and others would drink his urine. This urine, still containing psychoactive elements, may actually be more potent than the A. muscaria mushrooms with fewer negative effects, such as sweating and twitching, suggesting that the initial user may act as a screening filter for other components in the mushroom.”

These days anyone can achieve such altered states of mind but usually alcohol is the transporting medium. It is interesting, is it not, that a common slang term for alcoholic drinks, in Australia at least, is “piss”. Note that this fungus with its colourful fruit has allegedly gained a foothold in Australia.

More on fly agaric.

I did return to Mary by lunchtime, somewhat damp, and even brought back two bread rolls from the Co-op which I’d passed on the way home. The rain was still pelting down but toward the evening it relented somewhat, enough to allow us to stroll to another pub, McGochan’s, where we enjoyed our dinner to a background of Scottish music.

So this is what it was like this morning, and worse to follow. What we have here is an intense remnant of Hurricane Katia with air circulating anti-clockwise around the low pressure system in contrast to the situation in the southern hemisphere. It’s going to blow pretty hard in SW Scotland, probably from the west, but we’re sheltered tucked into Tobermory’s south-east facing harbour.

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