Monday 30 May 2016

Stirling to Skye

Written at Portree, Isle of Skye, 29May16

Well, we got here safely, but before I tell you about Skye, there are a couple of items of interest from our previous destination.

Firstly, our chosen B&B accommodation was superb and the hosts very hospitable and friendly. They had only two rooms available but we'd booked one for two nights months ago, based on their website info.

Kilronan House, Bridge of Allan, near Stirling. That's me, and our car at the front door.

The weather was less than perfect, but slightly drier than it had been the couple of days before. But we were still able to walk the 300 metres or so to the local for a decent pub meal and a Guinness each night. So we had a whole day to fill in after the terrific full Scottish breakfast on the first morning. While we had in mind a visit to nearby Stirling Castle, Linda, our hostess, suggested we might also be interested in some rather newer nearby "attractions", the Falkirk Wheel and The Kelpies. In the event we fitted all three in. While everyone's been to a castle or two, we think you'll be interested in these two modern features of Falkirk.

Firstly, the Falkirk Wheel, which through clever engineering has joined up two canals in a more efficient and spectacular way than the old style lock.
A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


And secondly, a modern sculpture. The Kelpies.
A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


Stirling Castle was an interesting visit too, although time does not permit me to add anything about it in this post.

And so the next morning, around 09:30am, after taking on sustenance at Linda's breakfast table, we set off, in drizzling rain, to journey through the highlands on roads we'd never before travelled, to the Isle of Skye, about four hours away.

Loch Laggan, about half way, by which time the clouds were clearing and the rain definitely gone.

And then, not far from Kyle of Lochalsh, we impulsively decided to take a small break at a layby overlooking a waterway known on the map as "Inner Seas Off the West Coast of Scotland". Here we discovered Sandy, who took a shine to Mary and accepted a small donation from us to feature in our movie.

A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on

By now the weather was superb, the car thermometer was reading outside air temperature as 20°C, and we'd both shed our jumpers. We couldn't believe our luck.

We'd never been on this part of the Scottish coast before and soon we could see, in the distance, the rugged peaks of our destination. Suddenly Scotland's most photographed castle, allegedly, appeared next to the road. It looked so photogenic that we just had to get one of Eilean Donan ourselves, and have an ice cream while we admired the building and its setting.

Eilean Donan, on the northern shore of the Inner Seas. Yes, this is our picture.

And shortly afterward we could see the bridge leading to the Isle. Another photo opportunity.

In the background, Isle of Skye. Pity about the industry in the foreground, but Scotland has to earn a living.

We rolled up to our rented cottage at 3:30pm and half an hour later were making up a supermarket shopping list for the next week.

Here at Portree we're 56° north of the equator and daylight is presently 17.5 hours long, and the days are still getting longer until the solstice on 21 June. It's 2140 local time; I'm sitting by the window and can clearly see across the adjacent valley, and the sun's just about setting. We're very lucky the sky is clear.

Here's a quick video of our cheese and bikkies a couple of hours ago.
A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


Thanks for viewing

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.


Our Instagram posts

The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).

Saturday 28 May 2016

Durham and into Scotland

Written at Bridge of Allan, near Stirling, Scotland

Friday 27May16

Today we're relaxing in our spacious B&B in this charming village prior to heading for the wilds of Scotland's north west tomorrow. Visible nearby is the stark outline of Stirling Castle, which we intend to visit today. But first let me tell you about our visit to Durham and the drive from there to here, which we undertook yesterday.

I had high expectations of Durham, especially because of the reputation of its cathedral but I was disappointed in what we found. Don't get me wrong, the people are friendly but the impression gained during a 36-hour stay is one of a small city which needs a bit of management and vision. For example, the steep left bank of the River Wear in the city (pronounced as in "weir"), generally appears unkempt where there are no buildings, with a profusion of unmanaged and largely unsightly vegetation where some glorious parks and gardens, evident in other English cities could be created. The cathedral was well worth a guided visit, although the tower was closed and covered in white clad scaffolding.

Google Earth view of Durham.

The city owes its existence to the cult of Cuthbert, an early Christian saint, whose alleged remains are entombed in the cathedral. The story goes that initially Cuthbert was discovered to be a special person when his body was exhumed on the nearby offshore island of Lindisfarne, eleven years after his death in 687AD. This exhumation was normal practice in those days and the intention was to clean up the bones and rebury them. To the amazement of the disinterrers, however, Cuthbert's body was found to be uncorrupted, a certain sign of saintliness in those days before cryogenic preservation. The body was quickly re-interred and the cult was born, especially as miraculous cures were reported and attributed to the intervention of Cuthbert, who himself had died in his fifties. The Vikings then came on the scene, plundering and pillaging, with Lindisfarne being an obvious target for their rapaciousness. This led to the removal of Cuthbert's remains and their carriage around the north of England for some 300 years before they reached their "final" resting place in 995AD on land at the near-impregnable bend in the river where the cathedral now stands. The city arose as a result of the popularity of the cult of Cuthbert and the need for the devotees to visit his remains. This story reminded me of the monks in a small town in France (which we visited a couple of years ago), who stole from another group of monks the remains of a saint and advertised them as now resident in their village, which prospered as a result. "Thieves never prosper", hah!

The Dun Cow, a pub with a grim past, near where we stayed in Durham.

And so we left England for Scotland on the Thursday. On the way, despite the weather, we diverted to see a famous modern monument, which perhaps you've also seen, in BBC TV drama shows if not in real life.

A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


We'd intended to drive along the coastal route, for the views, but were thwarted by the foul weather which reduced visibility to a couple of hundred metres. By the time we realized that views were unlikely we were committed to that general route and so, like the stoic people of that area, pushed on regardless.

Bamburgh Castle, just visible in the murk but perched right on the (invisible) beach.

With Mary driving, we crossed the border into Scotland in pouring rain and low visibility.

A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


And eventually we arrived, without incident and with the invaluable help of our iPad navigation system, at our B&B at Bridge of Allan. For those curious to see how we navigate, on foot, in trains and buses and in our car this short video may help. Make sure you tap or click to turn on the sound.

A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


Thanks for viewing

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.


Our Instagram posts

The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).

Wednesday 25 May 2016

Arbor Low

Probably you've never heard of Arbor Low, and nor had we until a couple of weeks ago when I stumbled on it while researching our stay in Ashford in the Water. Britain has ancient pre-Roman monuments sprinkled all over, many of them hardly known to, or visited by, tourists. They are on the edge of or inside villages, or on lonely isolated sites.

The most famous, of course, is Stonehenge, which we've visited a couple of times. It's awe inspiring and swamped by visitors. Arbor Low is nowhere near as spectacular but is in such a beautiful setting and only rarely has more than a couple of visitors at a time. Mary and I dropped in to see it at the tail end of a driving tour yesterday which coincided with exactly the right weather. To visit it, you park your car next to a farm at the end of a gravel road. Then you walk slightly uphill, past the farm buildings, dropping off the entry fee (£1 each) in an honesty box as you go. Then it's through a couple of gates, along the edge of some sheep-filled, grassy meadows, getting a bit of mud and other stuff on the boots, and there it is, where ancient Britons built it around 4-6000 years ago. Anyway you can read about it online but here's a one minute video we filmed yesterday.



Remember the rainbow trout picture from a few days ago? Yesterday was our last evening in Ashford in the Water and I was lucky enough to get some video of a feeding frenzy by the local trout. A local had befriended me (not in the Facebook sense) and offered to get some bread to crumble into the water. Some of the fish are pretty solid, as you can see in the video.



I'm writing this in Durham, where we've just arrived for two nights in an old Inn, within walking distance of the best Durham has to offer.

Thanks for viewing

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.


Our Instagram posts

The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).

Monday 23 May 2016

Walk in the White Forest

We awoke to a clear sky on Sunday 22May. With a refreshing good night's sleep behind me I donned my boots and walking clothes (no, not shorts) and left the cottage early. Sunrise here is 5:00am and sunset 9:00pm but often cloud gets in the way so I tend to "make hay while the sun shines" and so set off for an impromptu fast walk in the surrounding countryside. As long as you keep your bearings, it's fairly easy to leave these villages in one direction and return from another and this is what I achieved in an hour, using a variety of public footpaths, roads, and even part of a disused former rail route now converted to what is known as the Monsal Trail.

By the time I returned to the cottage Mary was up and about, the sun streaming through the kitchen windows. A quick check of the very good online forecast revealed that we were likely in for a sunny morning and possible rain in mid-afternoon. Over breakfast Mary suggested we use up the morning with a hike through Monsal Dale. Done deal!

Map image sourced from website of AA (no not that one, the motoring association), whose guide book we took on the walk.

We'd planned this 9km hike before leaving Australia, needing only good weather and several spare hours to fit it in. By 9:00am we were climbing the steady incline NW from the village through stone-wall-edged fields. Mary was delighted by a close encounter near here with a red breasted robin, which seemed curious at our passage.

Crossing a style early in the hike. As we climbed, the views steadily became better and better.

Soon we came across a small round pond where we learned, from an informative sign, that there's a program to save the great crested newt from possible extinction. Peering into the pond we could easily see several newts going about their business. As I explained to Mary, as a child growing up not too far from here I used to catch newts and temporarily imprison them, for close inspection, in a jam jar. I hope their conservation program succeeds.

Surprising to me was that we had the trail pretty much to ourselves, at least in the first section which terminated at the Monsal Head carpark, which overlooks the massive viaduct spanning the River Wye. We paused for an ice cream then plunged down into the dale to cross the viaduct and follow the meandering trail along the right bank of the river back to our village.

One of several ex-railway tunnels along the Monsal Trail. The railway was decommissioned many years ago and now cyclists, equestrians and pedestrians have free use of the former rail path.

The meadows along the Wye are right now sprinkled with daisies and buttercups. Wildflowers were abundant and an especially enjoyable facet of the hike.

Can any of you keen gardeners identify this species?


Walking through a forest decorated with what we believe are wild garlic flowers.

And a short movie of the wild garlic experience:


It had taken almost four hours, we'd climbed and descended 200m several times, and even made a new friend, 75 year old Bob Miller from Atlanta, GA, USA, who accompanied us for a while on the trail. The wildflowers were the best part but we really enjoyed the exercise and it was great to get home and put the feet up for a while.

Thanks for viewing

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.


Our Instagram posts

The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).

Sunday 22 May 2016

Our village and the surrounds, 21May16

Written by Mary 21May16

Ashford in the Water is not really in the water but on the banks of the River Wye. It's a lovely little village, mainly consisting of honey coloured stone houses with slate roofs. Lots of cottage flowers in gardens which I think have been recently refurbished in time for Spring.

Today being Saturday, there seem to be loads of visitors in town even though it's a wet day. Many look like walkers - the British don't worry about getting wet. I suppose they are used to it.

Our cottage is about 300 years old with walls almost a metre thick. It's whitewashed inside with dark brown wooden beams across the ceiling. Very comfortable apart from the narrow helical staircase to bedroom and bathroom which would never pass building regulations at home. There's also a large wooden wardrobe in the bedroom which couldn't possibly have come up the stairs. Perhaps it's some kind of Ikea item - erected in situ.

Our cottage is sort of one third of a triplex. Mary's at the front door. By Kev using GoPro.


A closer look. By Kev.

Today we decided to visit the stately home Chatsworth House which is only a few miles away and is the seat of the Dukes of Devonshire. The mansion is set on 18 hectares of gorgeous grounds and is full of art treasures. The guide told us that any gold we could see in or on the house was real and not just paint. The opulence of it all was unbelievable and I'm sure any of you who have also been there would agree.

After three and a half hours of walking around Chatsworth with open mouths however, we called it a day and made for home and a late lunch.



Then we went on a walk to see the well dressings around Ashford, an annual event referred to by Kev in his blog post yesterday. It turned out to be a bit dismal as the rain began again.

Well dressing has roots going back into pre history. Apparently it started as a sort of insurance policy against the wells drying up. Both pics by Mary.


It's quite cold too with a Melbourne-like nip in the air!

Our hired car is a brand new Hyundai four door, just right for these narrow country roads. Initially, we couldn't start it and had to call for assistance. You have to press the clutch as you turn the key. Kevin reckoned jet lag prevented him from working it out himself! A good excuse I expect.

Thanks for viewing

Mary

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.



The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).

Saturday 21 May 2016

In the Water, 21May16

Saturday 21May16. It's grey and drizzly outside our cosy cottage, not surprising considering it's 5:00am in central England. Strange village-centred annual activities are stirring in several of the residences, or at least their outbuildings. Soon processions of villagers and their unusual temporary artworks will assemble and converge on their community's most vital natural assets. But more of that later.

First, an account of our journey to here from the opposite side of the world. This was planned over four months, and the plan worked well, due in a very great degree to the ability, in modern travel, to predict accurately what will happen and when, and to easily communicate globally. Takes a little bit of the adventure out of it, I guess, but we can probably do without that at this stage of our lives.

What would Da Vinci have given to be able to do this? But it's all mundane to most travellers who rarely give a second thought to the sheer scale of organization going on behind the scenes. Sort of like building the Pyramids every day, accurately, without fuss. It's still astonishing to me, who first travelled this route by sea for four weeks as a child, albeit in the opposite direction.

Every arrangement we made happened on time, at the expected and usually prepaid cost, with minimal fuss at each interface. And so we arrived, from Australia, at our accommodation in this charming and ancient village in England yesterday having neither proffered nor used, during the entire journey on several modes of transport, any "paperwork" except passports, credit cards, disposable boarding passes (issued en route), Immigration in-out cards (completed and disposed of in situ), currency and driver licences. Already the boarding passes are passing into history and probably the remainder will too as the agent of their demise, the smartphone in its various forms, becomes ubiquitous.

A video posted by Mary & Kev Long (@noosatravellers) on


A few observations on our journey:

(1) For an Australian shopper travelling internationally there are still no real bargains at airport shops, but somehow the shops persist as does the Duty-Free myth.

(2) Smartphones now are permitted to "roam", for most of the trip, on Singapore Airlines SIN-LHR flights and presumably other destinations. But thankfully voice communication on them, at least in Economy class, is discouraged. On the ceiling of the cabin a new sign depicting a smart phone has appeared next to the seatbelt sign, where the old no-smoking sign used to be.

(3) On our aircraft SIN-LHR Internet access was available most of the time, at cost.

(4) Heathrow is now a pretty good airport. We cleared Immigration and picked up our bags quickly. But it was still cold outside.

(5) The best deal for data SIM cards for arriving passengers at London remains an off-airport agency (we used the communications carrier Three, at Hemel Hempstead, 30 minutes drive from Heathrow).

(6) You generally don't need a GPS-equipped hire car as your smart phone (or better, tablet) will do that job better unless you're travelling to remote locations.

(7) Expecting to get a good night's sleep on a SIA A380 in Economy class is unrealistic. Surprisingly, there was better space in our seats BNE-SIN, in a Boeing 777.

(8) When leaving Australia from Brisbane there's no need to manually complete an Outgoing passenger card if you have the App that does it for you (it's called a Digital Departure Card). Also, for Australians holding the new chip-equipped passport, there's no need to interact with a human at the border gate; you just scan your passport, pose sweetly for a picture and through you go, hopefully.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Back to the present and our village, Ashford in the Water (yes, IN the water). Venice it's not. It's better and much cheaper.

We drove straight to our cottage, were given early access immediately, and spent a little time settling in and having a lie down (38 hours since leaving home, somewhat tired) followed by a quick walk around yesterday, until the pub, 100m away, opened at 6:00pm.

One for our good friend Josie, to spur her recovery from illness. Nearby cottage. By Kev

A big rainbow trout, probably 2kg, in the River Wye, on which the village is situated. By Kev.

The local churchyard contains 293 standing headstones. By Mary

Not our cottage, but nearby. By Mary.

The very worn stone step at the kitchen entrance of our cottage. By Kev

Thanks for viewing

Mary and I welcome your email feedback and comment. Click here to email us.
Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.



The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.

Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).