Seems I was busy at Inverness, as I've not updated this blog since our departure from Betty Hill on 09June.
But two enjoyable nights with the FBI (Farr Bay Inn) at Betty Hill flew past. Having visited John o’ Groats and the Castle of Mey two days previously, there was no need to follow the NC500 route strictly and we opted to cut the corner and travel on the lesser and narrower road which exits at Helmsdale. We then turned south, more or less directly to Inverness.
My photograph diary shows a dearth of images on that Friday, but I recall noticing the numerous floating oil derricks prominent in the estuary as we approached Inverness.
Our accommodation in Inverness was arranged through Airbnb, the first time we'd used that facility outside Australia. A characteristic of Airbnb properties is that they are rarely signposted or distinguished from surrounding properties, being often nestled away among numerous similar residences. This requires that the Airbnb user be able to navigate and also be able to communicate with the provider, preferably via Airbnb's excellent on-line messaging facility.
Jennifer, our young hostess in Inverness, was on the ball. She'd let us know by message where the key safe was located and of course, the combination. As for us, we had to get ourselves to the address, identify it positively, find the key safe and check ourselves in. All this was achieved easily. In good time we were settling in to Jennifer's spacious apartment, tucked in under the rear of her substantial three story terrace home in Ardconnel Street, a couple of minutes walk from the busy centre of Inverness. Car parking is a crucial part of this arrangement as seldom is it freely available so close to city centres. In this case, Jen had provided us with a voucher to be displayed on the dashboard and we'd found space in the road directly in front of her home. Easy.
That first evening we opted to just do a pizza or similar (readily available in frozen form at the nearby CO-OP) at home, accompanied by one of the bottles from our dwindling supply of Paarl reds which we'd been carrying with us, in the mobile cellar parked outside, since Skye.
The substantial bedroom was windowless, being sequestered under the main house. This was a great help in getting to sleep early that evening, and for sleeping-in the next day as sunset and sunrise are only a few hours apart up here so close to the North Pole. One of the key attractions of this Airbnb was the WASHING MACHINE, as many of you will understand. Mary had the first load in and whirring around while we dealt with brekky and the relative complexities of the other appliances.
It was while dealing with the TV that we discovered that from nearby London there was live coverage of the Trooping of the Colour for the sovereign's birthday. That, and the washing, sorted out the morning. The amazing TV coverage (the Brits and the BBC do this so well) was over by early afternoon so, despite the threat of drizzling rain, we decided to take a stroll along the River Ness, and in the process check out possibilities for a pub dinner later. To my surprise, and delight, there were several fly-fishers wading the river just near our apartment. The salmon are running but it appears they are not so common as the fishers would like them to be, or as they allegedly were in the old days.
We'd crossed the Ness on one of the footbridges and then crossed back on another, bringing us back into the city centre, where we found ourselves faced with numerous pub options. But one, in particular, caught our eye, or rather, our ears, as there was music clearly audible whenever the door of this otherwise ordinary building opened. Peeking in, we were astonished to find a dance/singing party underway, with most of the participants of our age or even older. Irresistible, especially as the musicians were of a similar vintage and the songs mainly old Scottish.
Movie, one minute. Try to spot Mary in there.
We left after a Guinness or two and it was still going strong.
On Sunday, after getting the second load of washing sorted, we went down Memory Lane by car, to Drumnadrochit, which we'd previously visited in 1984, with our children. Nothing much had changed, and we still didn't spot Nessie.
Monster? What monster?
Last time we'd overnighted at a B&B in Drumnadrochit, before heading south. This time we did the circuit around Loch Ness, doubling back toward Inverness at Fort Augustus and coming back on the narrower road which edges the southern side of the loch.
We still had time to visit the Culloden Battlefield, just NE of Inverness, which we couldn't fit in on our previous visit. This was the site of the demise of the Jacobite rebellion, under the dubious leadership of Bonnie Prince Charlie, at the hands of the better trained and equipped Government forces led by the Duke of Cumberland. There's a fairly new visitor centre here and we also were lucky enough to be included on a free guided battlefield tour, of which there are only two a day.
Cottage on the battlefield, reconstructed in Victorian times, so quite authentic. By Mary.
Movie of the battle simulation experience. One minute.
Sunday was done, and so were we. Again we opted to stay in. Mary did her culinary magic with some bagels and we were into bed early for Monday meant departure for even further south, Pitlochry, but not by the direct route.
We had no particular desire to experience the delights of Pitlochry but were happy to try it as a waypoint between Inverness and Edinburgh, with a diversion through the Cairngorms National Park. This diversion was mainly because Mary wanted to experience Balmoral Castle, the famous summer holiday residence. It was on the way, even though it's out of the way, so why not? I wasn't so keen, but was pleasantly surprised.
The castle is in a wonderful setting, on the banks of the River Dee, whose clear, rushing waters had me salivating at the impossible prospect of fishing for the salmon and trout which inhabit it.
Still haven't seen a red squirrel on this trip. But they must be here. Walking up to the castle entrance.
Flowers for the castle interior are grown in the garden. Mary's photo (see more in the movie).
Scotch thistle motif on gate with castle in the background. Mary's photo.
Balmoral visit movie, one minute
We rolled into Pitlochry at 4:30pm, after driving across the Cairngorms through wonderful scenery and encountering very little other traffic. Here again, we're using Airbnb. I tried for traditional B&B but couldn't get a response from some local providers I tried by email. Airbnb is likely going to continue eating into their traditional market, but it may take a few years. Here our accommodation is the most spacious yet. We have two bedrooms, separate kitchen, bathroom and lounge right in the middle of Pitlochry. Even better, although nothing to do with the accommodation, we awoke to a cloudless sky and no wind.
We have no particular plans for our 36 hours or so here but it's a pleasant village in a mountain setting. Population is 2,700 which goes to over 8,000 in the holiday season (soon). There are prospects of watching salmon migrate upstream, and Mary has her eye on some new shops already.
Off to Edinburgh tomorrow, where we return the hire car at the railway station, spend three nights in another Airbnb before catching the train to London.
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Kev Long
Author iPad Traveller for iPad and Mac.
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The technical stuff:
Our main iPad is connecting to the Internet mainly through a cellular connection provided (prepaid, 3gb for three months for £16) by the UK "Three" network. On high ground and in town environments this connection has so far proven quite good but, as in Australia, some places lack good coverage so no or poor connection. There are quite a few WiFi options available too although not always advertised. Just ask if you're unsure if available. All except two of our accommodation reservations include free WiFi which is of course the preferred method of transferring large amounts of data but I have been posting these blogs and their images sometimes using only a cellular connection either from inside our accommodation or on the roadside.
Mary's iPhone is operating using an Australian SIM card (Optus prepaid) which is roaming while in the UK and gives us the ability to make phone calls (not cheap) and send and receive SMS. It also uses WiFi, can connect directly to the Internet through the local cellular system (expensive), and use a Personal Hot Spot provided by the iPad (essentially free as the iPad connection is prepaid).
Location:Elm Court,Pitlochry,United Kingdom
Loving your journey. Cairngorms are also dear to my heart. Looking forward to seeing you home. Enjoy Edinburgh. Sue D xx
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