As we drove toward it I must admit to some misgivings as to whether St Jean Pied de Port, where we’d chosen to spend a week and whose name contains references to foot and gate, would be able to maintain our interest for that whole time. The rural approaches were uninspiring, but the land quite suddenly became mountainous as we got closer to the Pyrenees, and thus gave us hope that it might be at least be scenic.
In fact, it is another great find, and another place I’d never heard of until a few months ago when a search for self-catering accommodation turned up two, and only two, possibilities here. It’s hard to attribute the location’s attractiveness to any one of the Basque heritage proudly on display, the town’s role on the edge of France’s southern defences over centuries, or the all pervasive mountain scenery. They all combine smoothly and produce a place where there seems to be a decent balance between activity and inactivity. Where all the visitors come from each day we’re not sure, but there are sufficient to support a bevy of restaurants, of which we’ll sample a different one each night, within a short walk of our accommodation.
View over part of the town from the Citadel.
Perhaps a reference to the recognition of Basque Country as a separate entity?
The River Nive runs through the town. This ruin is of an old mill which once was powered by the flow of the water.
Much of the human activity is a result of the town’s role as a key point for “pilgrims” trekking toward Santiago de Compostella, over 800km further to the south west, and across the Pyrenees. Plenty of them can be seen around town and some of the older buildings are put to use as accommodation, cheap and not-so-cheap, for them.
Portion of a placard in town, explaining the presence of real backpackers. Note the raindrops on the glass.
Pointing the way for arriving pilgrims to get their documents stamped, and find accommodation.
Sign on pilgrim accommodation place. Pic by Mary
Seen in a spectacles shop window. Probably the only reference to Australia in town. Weird, considering very few surfers wear glasses on the waves.
Bordeaux, the wine type, is abundant here, sold in the supermarkets and very drinkable. In our cottage/apartment Mary updates some friends.
Thanks for reading.
Kev
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