13Jun2011, a day in Cape Town city

Last blog from South Africa, this trip

Monday 13 June promising to be another superb weather day, we four opted for a day trip to Cape Town city, just north of Kommetjie. The chosen route, via Chapman's Peak, is the most scenic way to approach Cape Town and we were lucky as the route had re-opened in the last couple of days after a serious rockfall.

Soon the panoramas opened up for us as we wound around the cliff edge with the sea far below on the left and sheer cliffs on the right. Light mists lay in the windless pockets but much of the stunning scenery was available to view in comfort and safety from thoughtfully-provided roadside laybys.

Eventually, after many photo opportunity stops, we rounded a bend to this, the back view of the two spectacular mountains which dominate Cape Town, with the sea in the foreground shrouded in mist.

Cape Town is vastly different from other African cities we've seen. Its layout, dictated by geography and its setting are unique. People of many ethnic backgrounds make their living in its environs and there's always a bargain to be haggled over, as Mary and Lee soon revealed.

Shopping and yet another superb if late lunch under our straining belts, we trundled homeward for a beer or two and an early evening meal while watching the sun set at a roadside pub on the southern edge of the town of Hout Bay. Well what do you know, another itinerant souvenir seller came by. Out came the purses again, and the vendor made another sale, probably the last for the day for him. Mary, negotiating from her table, bought an endearing wire sculpture which was immediately named Shaun, after the ovine character in the animated TV series.

Then a return trip in the dark to Kommetjie, the sea now on our right and glistening in the moonlight. Another wonderful day in South Africa was done!

It's now Tuesday, our last full day here before we hand our car back early tomorrow at the airport and check-in for our flight to Singapore. After a two night layover there we plan to be home in Sunshine Beach on Saturday night. Hope the brilliant weather follows us home!

Thanks for reading.

11 and 12 June, overnight in Paarl

11 and 12 June 2011: visit to wineries and Paarl

South African wineries are mostly located close to Cape Town and many have been established for more than 300 years. So one of the great experiences in a visit to Cape Town is a side trip to one or more wineries. Who are we to deviate from this well established practice?

Saturday's weather was very good, quite warm but some cloud. We four had been invited to visit and stay the night with Lee's sister Este, her husband Dieter and their young children Annabel and Rainer who live in Paarl, close to the heart of the wine region. We got away mid morning and set off for the craggy mountain range which dominates the skyline to the east of Cape Town.

The first item on the agenda, after the obligatory impromptu shopping stop in Stellenbosch, was a wine tasting at the Boschendal winery. Here, for 20 Rand per head (about $3 Aust), tasters can choose five wines from the wide selection for tasting, in glorious outdoor surroundings.

We had an excuse to buy some of the wines, to take to Este's home, so left for phase 3, a picnic lunch, with several bottles in the boot. Accomplished without hassle at a picnic table in the main street of the picturesque village of Franschoek, this planned brief sojourn was extended by yet another impromptu shopping expedition successfully conducted by Mary and Lee. Nick and I visited the Hugenot Museum which included mention of Lee's distant relation, the guy who left France in 1723 and became the founder of the Blignaut family's presence in South Africa.

After lunch and shopping in Franschoek it was time to head for Paarl where Mary and I renewed our acquaintance with Este, Dieter and Annabel, who stayed with us in Australia a couple of years ago. A Braai (BBQ) was on the agenda with the meat being wild Kudu killed during a hunting expedition. It was a wonderful meal, the meat cooked in the backyard, and all washed down with quite a few glasses of South African wine.

And so to Sunday, another sparkling clear blue sky day, much warmer than it deserves to be in mid winter. After breakfast we drove and walked up the granite-capped mountain which dominates Paarl.

South Africa has outstanding food available at unbelievably reasonable prices. This was demonstrated to us once again when we lunched at Fairview Winery, near Paarl. Our party consisted of seven adults and one child. The place was packed but Este had thoughtfully made a reservation. The winery and its restaurant sit in beautiful gardens amid the vineyard, whose vines today were adorned with only the most stubborn red leaves and even these will be gone soon to make way for the new growth to come in a few months.

The a la carte food included grilled springbok, carpaccio beef, fresh salads and vegetables, multiple cheese varieties, snook paté, and a couple of different types of fresh-baked bread. Drinks were draught beers, various wines from the vineyard, coffees and soft drinks. All agreed that the meal was superb. The bill came to around $100 Aust, for everything. Coming to South Africa for the food alone would be worthwhile.

So now we're back in Kommetjie, near Cape Town at Lee and Nick's cottage. We have only two more full days left before we leave for home, with two nights in Singapore on the way.

Cape Town 10 Jun 2011, incl kayaking on False Bay

10Jun2011

Nick and I went on a kayaking tour in False Bay today. We were the only two customers, guided by a young guy from Simons Town, from where the two hour tour started and where it finished. False Bay is the large bay just SE of Cape Town.

We managed to select the best possible weather, aided by weather forecasts published on the Internet, and for me in particular it felt wonderful to be bobbing around on the briny again.

The bay's fish stocks have been badly depleted due to centuries of overfishing but it still has some great wildlife, including a population of Great White Sharks. In fact it was disconcerting to find, right next to where we launched the kayaks, billboards with graphic images of leaping GWS, with seal clamped between jaws, and offers of cage diving expeditions to swim with GWS. We were hoping that we wouldn't end up swimming cage-less with the GWS but our guide didn't seem worried so we paddled out of the harbor and enjoyed the morning immensely, finishing off with a big draft beer at the Two and Sixpence Pub in the main street of Simons Town.

Afterwards we met Mary and Lee for lunch at a waterside pub in Kalk Bay, just to the north. This pub had one of the best close up views possible of boogie board riders frolicking in the small surf amid the kelp. The sparkling day and the accompanying menu made the day even more enjoyable.

Only a few days to go before we start heading back towards Noosa. Hope the weather at home is going to be as good as we found here today!

Around Kommetjie, 09June 2011

Cape Town 09Jun11

Today was a rest day. And we needed it. A leisurely breakfast, Lee and Mary went shopping, Nick returned to his writing project, and I went for a walk.

Kommetjie, where Lee and Nick presently live, is a village, really. It's bounded on the west by the Atlantic Ocean and on all other sides by the Cape peninsula. Over 100 years old, it reeks of history and is filled with residents from many cultures.

This first pic especially for our dear friend, Sharlene Jorgensen, of Leavenworth, Kansas, who's a lighthouse pic collector.

Friday tomorrow and several things planned. But today was a nice rest and we're ready for the fray in this very adventurous environment.

Outeniquastrand to Cape Town, 08June2011

Outeniquastrand to Cape Town, 08June2011

Bidding a sad farewell this morning to Johannette and Sias, we hit the road west for Cape Town, some 400km away. For the first time on this trip the weather was foul, with a strong SE wind and showers accompanying us much of the way. Lee and Nick were also travelling with us, but separately in their car. Our plan was to meet up at their rented cottage, in a southern suburb of Cape Town.

This spectacular image was provided by NASA. North is to the left on the pic.

Despite the weather we made it OK and found the weather in Cape Town much more amenable.

Before dark we had a chance to take a look around the local area.

It's early to bed tonight and maybe an early morning stroll before brekky tomorrow. The cottage has a lovely north-facing verandah which, if it's sunny in the morning, will be ideal for basking during breakfast.

We have until next Wednesday 15June here, when we depart for Australia, via Singapore.

Tsitsikamma, 06June 2011

Tsitsikamma 06Jun2011

Monday 6 June was our second day in Tsitsikamma. Another fine day was presaged...

Lee, Nick and I left at 0830 to walk a short section of the Otter Trail, which starts at the western end of the park and wends its way across jumbled rocks (trail marked with a lion paw paint mark in bright yellow) and up and down through the coastal vegetation. This section terminates at a waterfall.

Nick, eagle-eyed as usual, spotted the first and only otter but the views generally were superb and the large Indian Ocean swell was especially exhilarating as it crashed into the rocks nearby.

Having finished the walk, I needed a lie down, but not before a hefty late breakfast for all of us was put on by Nettie. Our cabin had been raided and suffered the loss of a bag of rusks during our absence. Nettie had been working in the small kitchen when a large baboon decided to take a look. It jumped up onto the top of the half-door which opens to the kitchen, saw that Nettie's back was turned and almost soundlessly snatched the bag from the bench next to her. Loud yells ensued from some camp staff as the baboon raced across the road into the scrub, bag of rusks under one arm. Events such as this are quite common so visitors to Tsitsikamma have to take special care to ensure that food, in particular, is not purloined by these our resourceful distant relatives.

After a refreshing nap it was time for yet another cup of tea and some of Nettie's wonderful cake. And I wonder why a waist button popped from my pants the other day!

The suspension bridge track now beckoned and we all set off in the late afternoon to the east, toward the mouth of the Storms River.

This walk turned out to have some unexpectedly steep sections but we did spot a Southern Right Whale cruising in the river exit area, about 500m from the shore. Clear sky, whale, some slight exertion and a setting sun saw us now drawn to the Camp's restaurant and bar, which overlooks the river mouth. Draft beers in such circumstances are especially delicious. The ladies finished off the evening by a three pronged assault on the adjacent gift shop, which succumbed under this determined and well resourced attack. Some of our precious credit card ammo was used up, however, probably needless to relate.

And then, with the gathering dusk it was now back to the cabin for a glass of red, to light the braii, and for a dinner of fire-roasted lamb chops. Slept well.

Cape Town next...

Tsitsikamma 05June2011

Tsitsikamma 05June2011

About 150km east of Outeniquastrand lies the beautifully-named Tsitsikamma Reserve. Johannette and Sias had made arrangements for us to stay here with them for two nights, at this, one of their favourite places. Here we have a two bedroomed cabin on a rocky shore, less than 100m from the roaring sea. Nearby are small coves fringed with sandy beaches and the whole place stands with its back against 50m high cliffs. The reserve is run by Sanparks, the same organization that runs Kruger NP and from what we've seen so far, it does a great job of it. Lee and Nick also joined us here but travelled separately, fitting in a surfing session at Victoria Bay on the way. They have their own cosy, compact cabin nearby.

The above pics were taken during a short walk in the Reserve area late this afternoon, just as the sun set on a showery evening. During the walk we also spotted seals, humpback whales and dolphins and then, shortly after we lit the Braii (BBQ) the rain stopped and the Southern Cross shone prominently right overhead.

We're in bed early tonight with the surf roaring outside as it crashes onto the reefs fringing the shore. Hoping to see some otters tomorrow and do some hiking on some of the clifftop trails here.

Outeniquastrand Day 3, 03June2011

Honestly, we've been so busy the last two days that I haven't had time to post a blog. Johannette and Sias have been marvellously hospitable, showing us the local sights, especially the wonderful scenery which this country has in spades. And now Lee and Nick have joined us from Cape Town, will be with us here tomorrow and will accompany us to Tsitsikamma Reserve from Sunday until Tuesday. Here are a few small pics giving some idea of the delights of this part of Africa.

Graaff-Reinet to Outeniquastrand, 01 June 2011

01June2011

We made it! Those of you with us several years ago when we lunched here with Johannette and Sias will no doubt recall with pleasure that day.

But to get back to the start of today...

Graaff-Reinet was chilly but sunny (as usual) but we were headed for the southern coast of Africa where the sea was likely to increase the temperatures so we reckoned that we'd seen our last really cold morning of this trip.

The road from GR to Outeniqastrand runs almost dead straight SW for 90% of its distance.

As you can see from the satellite pic above the terrain changes dramatically once the southern coastline of SA is approached.

Eventually we arrived at the winding roads of the Outeniqa Pass which signalled the start of our rapid descent to the narrow coastal plain.

Without difficulty we found our way down to Johannette and Sias' wonderful home set on high ground overlooking the ocean. We hadn't seen each other since 2006, when they visited us at Noosa. Soon we'd renewed our acquaintance and Mary and I happily settled in to the luxurious accommodation they'd prepared for us, with hospitality typical of the people of South Africa.

Heaps of interesting activities are planned during the next week or so, including a couple of nights in a cabin at Tsitsikamma, a forested coastal park just east of here.